A note from the Editor

Fall is in the air in Seattle which tells me its harvest time in Wine Country. This is the time of year when I feel most drawn to the vineyards. It's where all the action is. From now until around the end of October, wineries will be bringing in grape varietals by the tons. They will begin the process of destemming, crushing, fermenting and finally, delivering the freshly made juice to the barrels.

This is the time that I find the most romantic and although, it is a very busy time for winemakers, I will still recommend a visit. If you've ever wanted to get in the thick of it and learn first hand about the process and the cycle from vine to barrel, now's the time. There's always work to be done and if you call ahead, you may be able to offer to lend a hand or at least stand back and watch for a bit and maybe taste some of the run-off.

In fact, this is such a special time of year that the Catch the Crush Holiday, now in its 21st year, is happening all across the Columbia Valley. It's a special holiday promoting the time honored event of harvest and crush in the wine industry. During the weekend of September 29-30 each of the Columbia Valley wineries offers its own celebratory events including grape stomps, winery tours, free run juice, hors d’oeuvres, live music, and of course – wine tasting! Don’t miss out on the beauty of the Indian Summer in the Columbia Valley vineyards during this special weekend.


Salut!

Jackie Walsh
Editor
Washington Wine Country
jwalsh@winecountrywashington.org

Washington Dishes Up Delicious Seconds

"Second Label - A term used for winery-produced wines that aren't the quality necessary to be bottled under the primary label. Such wines are generally made from grapes that are either from new vineyards or below top quality because of a substandard growing season. Although not usually as wonderful as primary-label wines, second labels can be surprisingly good. " - The Wine Lovers Companion

Second isn't always bad. It often takes the pressure off of being first and can sometimes be an unexpected delight. How many dishes do you make and actually enjoy them better when they are reheated the next day? With wine, the term second doesn't refer to older. It does however refer to a tier of winemaking that is lower than a wineries flagship brand.

There are many reasons wineries produce second labels and as the definition above states, first and foremost we think of second labels as lesser quality than what we would normally expect from our favorite vintners. Wineries don't want this lesser juice to go to waste so it will be blended into their second label. Economically, they salvage their harvest without the risk of tarnishing the reputation of their primary brand. As mentioned, this does not mean these wines are not good. They may not be as complex as their more established, wiser siblings, but they can still be quite beautiful. A great example of this is Woodward Canyon winemaker's Rick Small's infamous Merlot. His reputation for producing the highest quality Merlot is very high and his second label, Nelms Road, would give other Washington Merlot producers a run for their money as well.

Another reason for these second tier wines is cash flow. Often times newer wineries need to get wine out the door in order to keep money coming in. These younger, less developed wines offers them the opportunity to do just that while they leave their primary wines to age for another year or even two.

The third reason and what is actually a result of the first two, is that it is an ingenious marketing strategy for wineries. Wine has become trendy and the average wine drinker; although more and more savvy, isn't necessarily looking for the best of the best all of the time. In fact, time and time again, we hear that consumers shop by label alone. So why not use these second labels as an opportunity to experiment with some exciting and less traditional marketing strategies. What better way to explore fun new labels or try out the new screw top closures.

Stories of this sort run far and wine in Washington state. One of my favorite and most awe inspiring is that of long time producers Kestrel Vintners in Prosser. In 2004 the winery was producing around xx cases of their high quality varietals ranging from Old Vine Chardonnays to intense Cabs. When they produced their Drop Dead Red table wine with it's label of a sultry woman in a red dress, case production soared. Now in its fourth year and marketed under Lady in Red label (due to patent issues), this popular second label makes up two-thirds of the wineries case production. Kestrel has gone on to produce Lady in Red's sister white blend Pure Platinum adorned with the blonde bomb shell.

Moving down to Walla Walla, master marketer Charles Smith of K Vintners is another amazing story of a winery whose second label sells have sky rocketed winery production. Known for is oh so sexy Syrahs that have had the media buzzing for the past several years, Smith began selling his House Wine (recently sold to Precept Brands) in mass quantities at retailers like Costco, QFC and Trader Joe's. With it's very basic black and white label dressed with a childlike sketch of a house, this wine is an eye catcher on the shelf. Smith's marketing genius doesn't stop here, he has gone on to produce other trendy seconds including his Riesling,  Kung Fu Girl. Unlike some wineries, Smith doesn't shy away from marketing his original K Syrah in new ways. With names like "El Jefe" and "Motor City Kitty," Smith is always pushing the marketing envelope.

Of course, Washington isn't the first to produce second labels. In California, wineries such as Liberty School from Caymus Vineyards and Hawk Crest from Stag's Leap Wine Cellars are seconds. Examples in Bordeaux where such wines are sometimes referred to as second wines, are Les Forts de Latour from Château Latour and Moulin-des-Carruades from Château Lafite-Rothschild.

So, the next time you're shopping your local market and notice that eye catching label, take a closer look at who's bottling the wine. It may just be a second label from one of your favorite first class Washington wineries.

Facts & Tidbits

Guess Who's Serving Up Prosser Produce?

Did you know?

In his recent newsletter, Tom Douglas reported on the wonderful produce he has been harvesting, preparing and serving from his farm in none other than wine country's Prosser, located in the Yakima Valley. Stop in for dinner at Douglas' Seattle restaurant's Dahlia Lounge, Lola, Etta's or his newest creation, Serious Pie, and you could taste peas, beans, eggplant, cipollini onions, melons, peppers, tomatoes, and potatoes, "some of this first season's bounty" from the Douglas farm.


Source: Tom Douglas Seattle Kitchen Newsletter
 

Living Wine Country

Along The Wine Road

Airfield Estates

Prosser’s Merlot Road winery cluster continues to grow! The Miller family winery, Airfield Estates opened its doors this past Spring featuring 11,000 square feet of barrel storage, wine tasting, private meeting and commercial kitchen space. The story behind the winery is a great one, as four generations of Millers have worked the same piece of land and together have created a wonderful family legacy.

It began with H. Lloyd Miller who owned the property at a time when there was no water for irrigation. (A problem many would argue still exists). Since there wasn’t much farming to be done at that time, he leased the property to the Olympic Transport Company. Hangers and other facilities were built and the airbase was used to train fighter pilots from South America and the U.S. to land on naval aircraft carriers.

After the war, the buildings that were on the property were sold to H. Lloyd and they then became the headquarters and offices for his farm Airport Ranches. Since the end of WWII Airport Ranches has been a working farm and in 1968, the first wine grapes were planted. Today, the 750 acre ranch makes up 3% of Washington’s vineyards. The grapes are 100% Yakima Valley and have been sold to produce wines for many of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates wines including Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest and Snoqualmie. Their biggest varietal is Chardonnay and they are the largest producer of Pinot Gris in Washington state.

Wow! That’s a lot of history. So what about this new winery? In 2005, the younger Miller’s decided it was time to get in on the wine producing action. H. Lloyd’s son Don and his grandson Mike along with great grandson Marcus, all have a hand in this new winery. From partner/owner to grape grower to winemaker, together it is another great Washington family winery on the horizon.

The new winery, Airfield Estates, is located in Prosser’s Vintner's Village and was also built as a hanger with an aviation theme to capture the history and the family story. The fourth generation Miller, Marcus, formerly Assistant Winemaker for Tsillan Cellars and graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s Viticulture and Oenology program, sits at the helm of winemaking. He happily reports more than 12 wines in the making. Currently available are the 2005 Merlot, 2006 Aviator Blend and Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris from 2006. Marcus also reports that the Riesling ice wine is “off the rack” and should not be missed. Visit www.airfieldwines.com.



Get a Taste of the Destination

Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen Joins the  Walla Walla Cuisine Scene

Waitsburg residents Chris and Island Ainsworth have opened the newest culinary hot spot in Walla Walla, Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen. With a full house every night since the opening in early June, Chef and Owner Ainsworth is serving up small plates and dinner fare of octopus, kobe beef cheeks, flatbread, goat cheese gnocchi and clam ceviche.

Upon his latest visit to Walla Walla, wine writer Paul Gregutt had this to say about Saffron:

“The food is stunning, the ambiance warm and artsy, the place is packed. Prices are reasonable and portions are sized so that you can sample a wide variety of dishes. Excellent wine list too.”

On top of the impressive and unique menu, locals and visitors alike are raving about the friendly and attentive service that is reportedly knowledgeable, non-intrusive and “doesn’t miss a beat.”

Formerly of the Fish Club in Seattle and more recently of Tagaris Winery’s Taverna in the Tri-Cities, Ainsworth is one of a wave of young up and coming Chefs who have located themselves in wine country.

Saffron, named after the delicate, hand harvested and most treasured spices in the world is truly a product of love.

“Chris and I are in love and in love with what we are doing and the love shows when you visit,” says Island. “Walla Walla has been just an incredible community welcoming us with open-arms. We really love it here.”

Look for the couple’s next “love” creation this Fall, a Vietnamese Restaurant that will be opening next door to Saffron.
 

By Chef Chris Ainsworth TAPAS Carrot-Feta Salad  7. Organic roasted carrots, cauliflower, cucumbers, feta cheese & Moroccan chardonnay vinaigrette Grilled Quail 14. Moroccan style sweet & sour chili sauce Mushroom & Summer Squash Socca 8. Chickpea crêpe, grilled mushrooms, local summer squash, goat cheese, olive oil & fresh oregano Kobe Beef Cheeks 9. Eggplant agrodolce, basil & saba FLATBREADS Sausage & Sweet Onion 13. Housemade Italian style sweet onion sausage, roasted Walla Walla Sweets & ricotta cheese Date & Serano Ham 12. Rosemary, date-fennel jam, Oregonzola blue cheese & balsamic reduction   HOUSEMADE PASTAS Bucatini a la Razza 20. Roman style Bucatini pasta, brocolini, tomato, fresh oregano & skate sauce Fettucine & Clams 19. Whole clams, pancetta, Italian parsley, E.V.O.O. & Parmigiano Reggiano ENTREES Squab 17. Shaved fennel, orange, coriander, cilantro & pomegranate molasses Seared Wahoo* 24. Serano ham wrapped wahoo, Fava beans, mustard greens & fresh horse radish gremolatta Lamb* 24. Grilled leg of lamb, garbanzo bean salad, smokey yogurt & harissa Wood Grilled American Kobe Beef Adobo marinated, fire roasted fingerling potatoes, almond & caperberry salsa Paella Rojo 28. Roasted rabbit, clams, octopus, housemade chorizo sausage, sofrito & saffron rice

New Wine Touring Map Spans Washington Wine Country

This past spring, Washington Wine Country joined forces with the Tri-Cities Visitor & Convention Bureau, the Yakima Visitor & Convention Bureau and Tourism Walla Walla to produce the first wine touring map to span the entirety of Washington's wine country. The new map locates wineries in all eight American Viticultural Areas.

A first run production of 40,000 maps are being distributed at Visitor Centers, wineries and the VCBs themselves offering visitors a larger view of the region's expansive wine touring area. The map also highlights regional events and offers detailed way finding to both Washingtonians and visitors from other states. Locating the wine producing region of Washington to visitors from Idaho, Oregon, Canada and other parts of the country continues to be a vital component to marketing Washington's acclaimed grape growing area, outside of the rainy reputation of Seattle, to the world

"Not only does this region wide map offer easy wayfinding for consumers by having the vast vineyard region on a single, drivable map," states Washington Wine Country's founding director, Janet Leduc, "but it also displays the density of wineries in pockets located around the hub cities of Yakima, Prosser, Tri-Cities and Walla Walla."

Once again the Washington Wine Country Wine Touring Map is a wonderful demonstration that through working in partnership with the other important players in the region, a critical mass can be achieved. These organizations are able to come together and reach a much larger group than had one group tackled the project alone.

To receive a limited copy of the map, contact your local VCB or e-mail info@winecountrywashington.org.